South from San Quintín

We left Eddy’s just after seven, taking the washboard road past all the panga rentals. Pangas are small boats, and the area around this small bay was full of men waiting to take fishermen out for a day of frustration. 
We gassed up in El Rosario forty miles later (after actually gassing up in San Quintín). We only got ripped off for maybe $100P. El Rosario is notorious for its cost of gas.
Then away from the coast and into the mountains. Soon we were in a magical land of boojum and cardon, a tall cactus that seems to be related to the saguaro. We stopped and walked among these and many others: barrel cactus, hedgehog, and several varieties of nopal and cholla. 
A  little further down the road we found ourselves in a rock-covered moonscape. Rocks on top of rocks on top of rocks with boojum sprinkled among them. There was one hillside covered in rock, and it was so steep I wondered how the rocks clung to its side. I expected an avalanche at any moment.
Hills, valleys, and more moonscape. Her Majesty was good. She consistently told us we were on Callatera 1 in Baja California. Then, just twenty miles or so north of Guerrero Negro, she went on strike. She couldn’t find a signal. Good thing we weren’t lost.
We came to the military checkpoint between Baja and Baja Sur, and as advised, we begged off from the “required” spraydown against bugs. We claimed asthma as the Moon Handbook to Baja suggested. The man smirked a bit and called over to the others, “Asthma!” I’m guessing a lot of people develop asthma when at this checkpoint.
Once in Guerrero Negro, we searched in vain for one of the two cheap motels Moon had suggested. We couldn’t even find the turnoff. We had thought to camp at the lagoon but several advised against it since we were two females who would be in a tent. We ended up in the San Ignacio Motel, two nights for $700P and there was wireless internet available in the office.
Off to the lagoon! Five miles south on the highway, then onto a dirt/sand road for another eighteen or so miles. We made good time because the road was in quite good shape. We’d been warned that it could be very washboarded and slow, but it was packed hard and fairly smooth.
Through sparse desert and then suddenly we were in salt fields! Salted roads, lagoons full of salt, and salty foam blowing across the road. It was astounding. One pond was pinkish in color, and though I took a few pictures, the photos couldn’t capture that color.
Sadly, when we got to Ojo de Liebre, there were no whales close in. I saw a few quite far out – saw the water shoot up and a dark back break the surface. As Cinda pointed out, should the rapture happen this night (and should we be taken, which is unlikely) at least I have seen a whale.
We got back to our room, and tired of spending money, decided to eat some instant macaroni and cheese (just add water!). Well, in small print, it said, “and microwave for two minutes.” We settled for some instant soup (just add water!). Thankfully, it truly needed no microwaving. I just set up the little propane cooker and soon water was boiling and we had dinner. Of sorts. A bottle of wine can turn even instant soup into dinner.

Published by Emilie

I'm a retired instructor from a community college where I taught Developmental English and Reading as well as English as a Second Language. I'm also now a published author of a bilingual children's book entitled. Luisa the Green Sea Turtle - Luisa la Tortuga Verde del Mar. It's available from me, through Amazon, and is in a few (more and more each day!) bookstores.

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