North – and East to the Sea

We awoke early and soon slid the window open. Cool air and the sound of singing birds rushed into the room. Soon the man next door cranked on his TV so its sounds could accompany the birds. Thankfully, he turned it off after a short while.
Cinda braved wading through the bathroom to the shower. Its floor, ironically, was dry, but not for long. She turned on the shower full blast, trying first the hot and then the cold knobs, but neither gave out hot water.
This little motel has wi-fi, and it even reached our room (it didn’t reach our last room). Presumably they offer it because more and more patrons want or need wi-fi as they travel. However, I guess the owner of this establishment doesn’t think travelers want or need dry floors,flushing toilet, or hot showers. Wi-fi should clearly be enough.
We headed out later than usual, close to eight, and zipped right through the checkpoint between Baja California  Sur and Baja California. Then through the military checkpoint a short time later. There, as before, I had to present my passport, and tell them where we were coming from and where we were headed.
We’d decided we weren’t done with this road trip yet so we cut east across the peninsula yet again to Bahia de Los Angeles. A beautiful stretch of desert with boojums sprinkled throughout. We were there in under three hours, but due to the magic of time zones, it was only around ten.
The approach was stunning. Down out of the hills, and out across the water were islands and islands, all of them desert rock jutting up. No tour ship will ever reach these shores. It’s fine for little boats but surely impossible for large ones.
There was no actual town. It was more like a strip of services stretching for a mile or so along the shoreline. I can’t think of another Mexican town I’ve been to that didn’t seem to have an actual downtown.
We found the city buildings a block up from shore, and there was a park across from it, but it was more of a playground park. Around the corner was a little museum.
We roamed the entire stretch of shoreline from the southern edge to miles out of town at the area called La Gringa which was a camping area with seemingly no services. There were a number of hotels and motels along the northern shore, all priced high. One was quite fancy, with suites on the ocean, a swimming pool, and a seaside restaurant. The rooms off the lobby were affordable but a bit blah. This place was also offering beachfront lots for sale to no avail.
We found a great little campground, overpriced. But if the wind hadn’t been blasting and swirling sand everywhere, we may have taken it. The owner, Antonio, had been involved with turtle rescue, and we liked him. 
The northern shore was overpriced because electricity isn’t there yet. Every place we visited had solar panels, a generator or two, and maybe even a wind machine. We stopped in one place two different times, and although the motel rooms were open, no one was there.
Most of the north shore was rocky, not sandy, so there is no beach. Tide was at its lowest and flattest, so there wouldn’t even be much good splashing going on. We headed back south, into “town” and checked into La Hamaca for $450P, and it was probably the nicest room of the whole trip, barring, of course, the fabulous room with friends in El Sargento. Nothing beats that!
We had lunch on the beach and headed to the museum, but of course it had just closed (open 10-1 only). We did some beach wandering and when we found a small area sheltered from the wind, I soaked up some rays.
The night was absolutely quiet. There were several  lights in town plus a string of weak streetlights running along the highway, and unfortunately each room of our motel had a light over the doorway. Ours was off but the others blazed. No stargazing from the porch or even from the beach.
This is a sweet, sleepy little town, but there are few tourists. I can’t imagine it will survive without a tourist resurrection. Some of the camping areas north of town were busy, and one camping area in town was busy, but the motels, for the most part, were fairly empty. Actually, the camping areas held a number of trailers, but they appeared to be there year round and many were closed up.The only other gringos we ran into who weren’t in their own little trailer or RV had sailed in from Vancouver and were staying on their boat.
This is a good place for an escape, for quiet. Expect to walk the beach and fish and maybe do some hiking in the surrounding mountains or charter a boat to tour the islands. 
Oh – and you can assist with the turtle rescue, which is a catch and release type program. But even the turtles weren’t around. They are hibernating this time of year. 

Published by Emilie

I'm a retired instructor from a community college where I taught Developmental English and Reading as well as English as a Second Language. I'm also now a published author of a bilingual children's book entitled. Luisa the Green Sea Turtle - Luisa la Tortuga Verde del Mar. It's available from me, through Amazon, and is in a few (more and more each day!) bookstores.

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