My friend Pam lives in Tucson and has a little casita in the village of Mata Ortiz, Chihuahua, México. Mata Ortiz is a village of about 2000 people with typical small town shops—mostly food and other necessities.
But about seventy years ago, villagers began using clay in the area to form pottery, copying old pieces they’d found in fields surrounding the town. By the 1990s when I first visited, the community was becoming known for fine ceramics, and potters were beginning to show their work in galleries throughout the US, then Mexico, and eventually, throughout the world. The pots, not always traditional designs these days, carry prices up to $3000.
Pam and I left my house around 8 am on a Monday morning heading east on US Highway 80. East then northeast into New Mexico and to the tiny town of Rodeo, today with a population of fewer than fifty people.
Years back, I’d always stop at the Rodeo store and restaurant. I’ve purchased food there and had some great meals in the little cafe.
Pam and I decided to stop for a quick visit, maybe pick up some food to take on the trip. We found only a few snacks available—very few—and the restaurant owner/cook/waitress/cashier was having a cup of coffee with a friend. There were no other customers.
We chatted with them briefly and I told the owner how much I’d always loved the US Highway 80 map mural on the south wall of the cafe. Pam and I then headed on our way having found nothing at all to purchase.
Soon we were headed east on New Mexico 9 going through Animas (about 125 people) and Playas, (around 50 people), a town once built and owned by Phelps Dodge Mining Corporation. Then to Hachita (also around 50 people), Hermanas (no longer exists), and finally Columbus, with a population of about 1400.
As we drove from Hachita to Hermanas, we looked for any signs designating the area where Phelps Dodge Mining Corporation, the then Bisbee (AZ) mining company, had dumped a thousand or so miners in 1917. Read the book Bisbee ’17 for the history of the 1917 Deportation, or watch the 2017 filmof the same name (though not a takeoff on the book) to learn about that tumultuous and cruel time in history.
In any event, we found no clues to where the miners had been abandoned and could not even spot any remains of the town of Hermanas other than a cattle pen and a water tower.
We turned south in Columbus and headed for the border.
Crossing into Palomas, Chihuahua, we stopped for lunch a block south of the border at the famous Pink Store.
And then we drove southwest, stopping in Janos to see the ruins of the the Franciscan Mission built in the early 1700s, as well as the ruins of Capilla Capestrenses de Guadalupe.
Through Nuevas Casas Grandes, then Casas Grandes which was settled in the 1660s, past the Mormon community of Colonia Juarez, and finally to Mata Ortiz and Pam’s house.
We wandered Mata Ortiz, enjoying the views and visiting friends.
We made one trip back to the city of Nuevas Casas Grandes for pesos, and another trip back for a great lunch at a mariscos (seafood) restaurant.
And of course, we saw a lot of pottery. And bought some.
We visited the ruins of Paquimé, a once large city founded, experts believe, around 1050.
We went to Colonia Juarez and saw the Mormon Temple. I also bought the best empanadas I’ve had in my life, and believe me, I’ve had many.
Friday we packed up and headed home, again crossing the border at Palomas, but this time we stopped for green chile cheeseburgers in Columbus at the Borderland Cafe—worth going out of your way for if you’re driving I-10 through New Mexico. It’s only about half an hour south of Deming. Then, rather than heading back to the interstate, you can head east or west along Highway 9 and enjoy the rural scenery.
I’d say visit Mata Ortiz, but you need a passport, an FMM (Mexican travel permit) Mexican auto insurance, and a permiso (Mexican temporary import permit—a fee plus at least a $3-500 deposit) for your vehicle. Don’t drive down without all of that!
As a border resident, I always have my passport on me and I buy Mexican auto insurance yearly. I get a six-month FMM twice a year and drive only where no vehicle permiso is necessary.
Wow. Thanks for that Emilie. I think it was before I had even started at the college, I went on a field trip led by Becky Orozco as part of Cochise College. We went south from Aqua Prieta to Casas Grandes and Mata Ortiz. Met Juan Quezada and other potters. Bought some too. Went through Janos (I think) and Pacquime. Really brings back some good memories. Pam who you refer to? Is that Pam Thompson from the College? She was one of my pals there. Her office was in the same building as mine. She spoke so highly of Tucson Subaru that was where I got my current vehicle (2009 Subaru Forester) after my Honda CR-V was totaled by a red light runner.
The Pam I refer to is a different Pam. I went on a few trips with Becky but originally went with Manny when I was taking a pottery class.
Looks like a fun adventure. The pottery is amazing.
That pottery is incredible!
It sure is! I swore I wasn’t going to buy anything on this visit, but once again, I came home with a piece.
What’s amazing is you managed to resist buying all of them
Thanks Emily. Great write up. We had a neighbor give us a piece of that pottery when we left Bisbee. Would love to go down and see the place. Also, I didn’t know one needed a temporary import permit!
Very nice trip. I love the pottery. It is so intricate. Thanks for sharing.
Watching them work is amazing. The photo of Jera with a paintbrush shows how intricate the work is. He made that paintbrush with his daughter’s hairs. Taken from a brush, no plucking.
It’s comforting to know the artist is not a plucker.
Well, good. Glad I could comfort you.
The pottery work there is just excellent. I love to visit the Village, but it seems I always come back with something even when I swear I won’t.
Such a wonderful place. I would love to visit one day
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