The Last Day

Last day.
I wanted to turn around and head south, but guess I’ll have to wait.
Both of us are such early risers that we were up, showered, packed, and coffee made before six. Arizona time. It was an hour earlier on the coast. So why wait? We hit the road.
Usually I don’t like to drive in Mexico at night, but at this early hour I expected very little traffic. We took it nice and slow off the mountain then met a few other early risers when we got into Ensenada. It felt great to be through the city before it got busy. We cut northeast and did the wine country route. We were a bit regretful that it was so early and we couldn’t stop for samples. 
Tis is a beautiful drive and through the wine area itself the lanes are wide and smooth. We knew we were out of wine country when the road narrowed and was filled with potholes.
We soon came to a hilly area set in with fog. Most of the fog was a bit west or north of us, but we hit a little. Seeing the fug snuggle in the valleys made for a beautiful drive.
To Tecate where we sat in line at the border for almost exactly one hour. Zipped right through – one of the benefits of gray hair.
There is nothing much to say about the drive once we got back into the states. The area around Tecate was hilly and green, and we passed through a small piece of tribal land, the Campo tribe. After that, interstate.
After more than two weeks driving in Mexico, our highways seem so large! And so smooth! Four lanes, divided. The right hand lane in each direction has a shoulder wide enough to be used as a third lane. These two lanes plus the shoulder are almost as wide as four lanes in Mexico.
So, what stands out from this trip?
The narrow roads and the  malfunctioning bathrooms.
The kind, helpful, and generous Mexican people.
Friends, both old and new.
The crazy signs and/or lack of signs, right when you need on the most. 
(However, this is more than balanced by the wonderful people.)
The beach and the sand between my toes.
Islands in the distance.
La Bufadora.
Sunrises and sunsets.
A good traveling companion.
The food!!
And of course, most of all, the whales.

North to Ensenada

We left Bahia de Los Angeles early and went straight to the Pemex for gas. It wasn’t open.
Soon a man arrived in a van, went to a pump, pulled out a key. He turned on the pump and filled his van.
I wandered over asking when the place would open. He thought it should be open, checked the door, hollered for someone and gave up. He assured me it would open soon.
We read awhile, then I went to check the man’s pump and see if it was still on. No luck.
Then someone else came in. I dashed right over and asked if here were any other stations. Felt like a fool. There was one about a block away! The other driver and I zipped right over and filled up.
Back through the gorgeous desert. In forty miles we saw no other vehicles. And we made a few stops to wander this glorious desert and take photos. We were on that road well over an hour and saw no one after we left the Pemex. We did see a few cows, though, and a cluster of burros along the side of the road.
Back to Highway 1 and north. We’d had to get gas in Bahia de Los Angeles because we knew there wouldn’t be a station for nearly 200 miles and we already had quite a few miles on the previous tank. Do NOT pass up a gas station in the Baja unless you’re certain another one is coming up soon!
We stopped near Catania to look at petroglyphs but our guidebook didn’t get us quite there. There is a petroglyphs site just north of Catania, but it’s an official government site, guide and fee required. Just like not passing up a gas station, don’t break laws in Mexico. I don’t even want to think of the fines or the insides of a jail.
Eventually we got to the twisty turnies. This is a stretch of highway maybe forty miles long that goes up and down, twists and turns, and each lane is only about nine feet wide. Oh. And there are drop offs, sheer rock walls, and no pullovers. 
I have spoken to a number of people about this stretch of road. There are stories upon stories of people driving RVs who lost a driver-side mirror because one or both vehicles headed toward each other don’t scrunch over to the right side quite enough, and mirrors collided.
This is  not a stretch of road for the faint of heart.
Headed north, after the worst of the road, comes the town of El Rosario. At one of the curves in town on the east side of the road is a restaurant called Mama Espinoza’s. Eat there. No matter the time of day, stop and eat. Heading south, El Rosario is about twenty-five miles or so south of San Quentin, and Mama Espinoza’s is at the first curve to the left.
After a hearty lunch with Mama, we headed on through San Quentin and eventually into the lush agricultural area south of Ensenada. Green the color of a golf course spilled down hillsides and out across the valleys. Some areas had acres of greenhouses of tomatoes and lettuce while other fields were planted with grapes and nopales. 
Just inside the south edge of suburban Ensenada we cut west to see La Bufadora. La Bufadora is a spot on the coast where the incoming waves enter a cave and blow out a hole in the top of the cave. Water shoots out the hole, sometimes as high as about one hundred feet. That water splashes for quite a distance, so it’s best to go on a warm day. Trust me. 
After enjoying La Bufadora, we headed just a short distance down the road and took the one and only motel, Motel La Bufadora.
I heartily recommend seeing La Bufadora. The motel, not so much. It was a bit worn and all rooms are on the second or third floor.
But I’ve got to say we had a view. We were high on a hill looking northeast across the bay at Ensenada. It was beautiful and it was quiet. Perfect for a good night’s sleep. Oh – and no water on the bathroom floor, and lots of hot water!

North – and East to the Sea

We awoke early and soon slid the window open. Cool air and the sound of singing birds rushed into the room. Soon the man next door cranked on his TV so its sounds could accompany the birds. Thankfully, he turned it off after a short while.
Cinda braved wading through the bathroom to the shower. Its floor, ironically, was dry, but not for long. She turned on the shower full blast, trying first the hot and then the cold knobs, but neither gave out hot water.
This little motel has wi-fi, and it even reached our room (it didn’t reach our last room). Presumably they offer it because more and more patrons want or need wi-fi as they travel. However, I guess the owner of this establishment doesn’t think travelers want or need dry floors,flushing toilet, or hot showers. Wi-fi should clearly be enough.
We headed out later than usual, close to eight, and zipped right through the checkpoint between Baja California  Sur and Baja California. Then through the military checkpoint a short time later. There, as before, I had to present my passport, and tell them where we were coming from and where we were headed.
We’d decided we weren’t done with this road trip yet so we cut east across the peninsula yet again to Bahia de Los Angeles. A beautiful stretch of desert with boojums sprinkled throughout. We were there in under three hours, but due to the magic of time zones, it was only around ten.
The approach was stunning. Down out of the hills, and out across the water were islands and islands, all of them desert rock jutting up. No tour ship will ever reach these shores. It’s fine for little boats but surely impossible for large ones.
There was no actual town. It was more like a strip of services stretching for a mile or so along the shoreline. I can’t think of another Mexican town I’ve been to that didn’t seem to have an actual downtown.
We found the city buildings a block up from shore, and there was a park across from it, but it was more of a playground park. Around the corner was a little museum.
We roamed the entire stretch of shoreline from the southern edge to miles out of town at the area called La Gringa which was a camping area with seemingly no services. There were a number of hotels and motels along the northern shore, all priced high. One was quite fancy, with suites on the ocean, a swimming pool, and a seaside restaurant. The rooms off the lobby were affordable but a bit blah. This place was also offering beachfront lots for sale to no avail.
We found a great little campground, overpriced. But if the wind hadn’t been blasting and swirling sand everywhere, we may have taken it. The owner, Antonio, had been involved with turtle rescue, and we liked him. 
The northern shore was overpriced because electricity isn’t there yet. Every place we visited had solar panels, a generator or two, and maybe even a wind machine. We stopped in one place two different times, and although the motel rooms were open, no one was there.
Most of the north shore was rocky, not sandy, so there is no beach. Tide was at its lowest and flattest, so there wouldn’t even be much good splashing going on. We headed back south, into “town” and checked into La Hamaca for $450P, and it was probably the nicest room of the whole trip, barring, of course, the fabulous room with friends in El Sargento. Nothing beats that!
We had lunch on the beach and headed to the museum, but of course it had just closed (open 10-1 only). We did some beach wandering and when we found a small area sheltered from the wind, I soaked up some rays.
The night was absolutely quiet. There were several  lights in town plus a string of weak streetlights running along the highway, and unfortunately each room of our motel had a light over the doorway. Ours was off but the others blazed. No stargazing from the porch or even from the beach.
This is a sweet, sleepy little town, but there are few tourists. I can’t imagine it will survive without a tourist resurrection. Some of the camping areas north of town were busy, and one camping area in town was busy, but the motels, for the most part, were fairly empty. Actually, the camping areas held a number of trailers, but they appeared to be there year round and many were closed up.The only other gringos we ran into who weren’t in their own little trailer or RV had sailed in from Vancouver and were staying on their boat.
This is a good place for an escape, for quiet. Expect to walk the beach and fish and maybe do some hiking in the surrounding mountains or charter a boat to tour the islands. 
Oh – and you can assist with the turtle rescue, which is a catch and release type program. But even the turtles weren’t around. They are hibernating this time of year. 

Back to Guerrero Negro

We left our new friend in San Ignacio and followed her suggestion that we visit a beach area known as Campo Rene.
First thing north of San Ignacio was the military checkpoint, the same one that actually searched our car on the way down. They were just as busy enforcing the law this time through, but shortly after that we cut southwest to the beach.
What a wonderful area of coral and shells! We could have spent a day – if we’d had a whole day and if it hadn’t been chilly and windy. But once again, weather conspired against us and we moved on.
The rest of the trip was just a few hours long and we were back in Guerrero Negro.
We pulled into the same motel, the San Ignacio, and we greeted as old friends.  Although we like this little motel, should you come this way there is one thing you need to know: the bathrooms are pretty bad.
In our first room, the toilet didn’t flush, that is, until it chose to overflow. Then it actually did flush but it flooded the small bathroom.
In this room, the toilet flushes. Sometimes on its one, but it flushes. There is also a leak and the floor is always wet. No problem. Our friend here gave us a mop to use. 
After settling in (and mopping the bathroom a few times), we went to dinner and had one of the least expensive meals on our trip at one of the more interesting restaurants.
Keep in mind here that “interesting” can be used in many ways.
Our restaurant of choice was not a restaurant but a figon. What is a figon? It’s a fonda. What is a fonda? Why, it is a little restaurant!
In Spain, there are figones rather than cafes. The old owner of this little place- just five tables – called it a figon because figones are taxed at a lower rate than restaurants and cafes.
This little place was old and a bit musty. There were four windows, but one of wall openings was filled with what seemed to be a very old, dimpled plastic shower enclosure that had yellowed. 
The windows each had limp orange curtains drooping from bent rods. Except for the window filled with the old shower enclosure. Since no one could see through, I guess the owner felt as though that window didn’t need curtains.
The walls were decorated with old photos, mostly of the nearby salt mining operation. One wall had a mural of a lighthouse. A plant filled one corner and maintained a small colony of spiders.
There was one very inconsistent decorative item – a photo of a couple sitting at our very table. I figured it might be the old man’s kids or grandkids. When I asked, he shuffled to the counter and picked up a few papers to show us. One was a copy of the photo and the other was a promo for a movie. The movie, Bajo el Sal (below the salt) had been shot in Guerrero Negro, and one piece if it had been filmed in this figon. The owner was delighted to have had his business in a movie and delighted to tell us about it.
A sweet old dog came in after we arrived and dozed on the floor with one eye open, monitoring our table for food that might spill, but he left disappointed. We are every bite.

North to San Ignacio

North To San Ignacio
We left Loreto in the gray of dawn. Bahia de Concepcion called to us as it had on the way south, and we pulled over time after time to be by its so-blue waters.
One stop was on an isolated beach that had promised camping. When we had driven the sand roads to get there, we found what may once have been a few camping spots and an almost falling down shack. But it was a lovely place to walk awhile. 
I wandered past the shack, and as I did so, I could swear I heard some chickens. Turned around, and sure enough, chickens. Happy plump ones.
The door to the shack was on this side, away from the “road” we’d come in on. The door was open. Furniture inside. Outside, near the chickens, some fresh hay. Not an abandoned shack!
No one seemed to be around, so we explored a little more and left a gift of a fruit bar near the door.
On the way north, stopping to search for petroglyphs (didn’t find them) and and also look for the hot springs our guidebook said would be there (didn’t find it). But the views we incredible at every stop.
Next stop, Mulege. This time we took time to explore. We headed out to the sea, driving through town, onto a dirt road, onto pavement resembling a super highway, then back to dirt. We finally got to the water. I pulled on my bathing suit, set out my beach chair, and took in the sun. Cinda spent her time, as usual, combing the beach in search of prize shells. We saw egrets, herons and gulls in search of a late breakfast.
We snacked on tortillas, fresh queso, and avocado. When a group arrived, we left. On the way back to town, as we crossed the little stretch of pavement that seemed like a super highway, we saw men at work. Sweeping. There were at least six men out sweeping that little, less than quarter mile stretch of pavement. A small stretch, but clean, clean, clean. 
In the same area as the super clean stretch of highway we saw a most unusual sight. Palm trees stood, dead, their fronds gone. This likely happened in one of the last major storms in the past decade. It was so strange – dozens and dozens of trees with their heads ripped off. 
Back in town we found a little cafe with the absolute best cake de tres leches I have ever had. Delicious. Melt-in-the-mouth. Sinful. I could have eaten four or five.
Then, up to see the church, an old mission with rock walls three feet thick, built in the late 1700s. The original, on the river, was built much earlier, but was safely rebuilt high over town after a major flood. Cinda longed for the museum, but it was closed
We reached Santa Rosalia and checked on the ferry to Guaymas, but it wasn’t running for two more days and the cost would have been over $400, so on we went to San Ignacio.
The road north out of Santa Rosalia is steep and narrow, and of course we landed behind a monster truck for several miles until I could pass. We groaned along at a whopping four miles per hour until I could get around.
We arrived in San Ignacio and I tried to call the woman we were supposed to connect with, but the number didn’t exist. This is a woman we didn’t know, a friend of a friend. She had said she lived behind a hotel out of town a bit, so we drove there, hoping to spot a place that “looked like” hers. Didn’t work.
Back to town to the only little place with internet so I could hook up and check my email, be sure I had the right number. I asked the man if he happened to know our contact, and hooray for small towns. He was her landlord! He also gave me her correct phone number and directions to her place. We were off.
We pulled up and began to walk to her house, and a woman was walking toward us. Yep, the woman we’d been looking for.
Hugs all around, then she ushered us into her house and we settled in. We took her out that night (super margaritas!!), then back to her house for chat.
It was with some regret on all sides when we left in the morning. The woman we stayed with was interesting, someone I’d like to get to know better. Also, she’s in such a small town that visitors were a welcome diversion. Plans are already underway for my return visit!

Loreto, Baja California Sur

We arrived in Loreto Friday afternoon after breakfasting in La Paz at Hotel Perla on the malecón. I once stayed in this hotel, nearly thirty years ago, when it cost about ten dollars. Today’s rate is closer to eighty.
We arrived in Loreto earlier than our hostess had expected, but she was ready. We had hoped to stay just two nights, but that has slid into three.
I can’t quite explain why I like this town so much. Partly, of course, because it’s on the water. Also, it’s old, established in the late 1600s. Parts have been fixed up for tourists, but much is a typical Mexican town, so the combination is nice. I am in Mexico but can get an espresso.
There are monstrous houses in the “gringo gulch” area, but my friend here lives in a typical neighborhood and has a comfy house at a very affordable price. She has bought the Mexican health insurance. There is a very good hospital should she need it.
There are upscale hotels and restaurants and little affordable motels and  taquerías (see last posting about Loreto to read about McLulu’s). 
The streets and beaches are clean. Unlike many towns in Mexico, there aren’t “street dogs” everywhere. 
The confused rooster down the street continues to crow two to three times a minute. Music comes from the other direction.
This morning we all wandered down to the weekly market held in a dry wash. You can buy almost anything there, almost enough to set up a household. After that we had breakfast at a beachfront restaurant and then it was time to walk some more before settling down out of the sun to read or nap. We’ll emerge later to do some more walking and then have a beer or margarita, watching the Sea if Cortez and its islands change colors as the sun goes down.
Tomorrow we leave but won’t go far. Just up the road a few hours to an isolated beach for the night. We’ll stock up here first with some tortillas, cheese, and avocado. A few beers and a Mexican Coca Cola (stills made with sugar rather than corn syrup, and the taste is noticeable different). Then we’ll be ready for an afternoon and night on the beach!

Best Toilet Story

We were at a tiny seaside restaurant. Tables and chairs on the beach, kitchen in the palapa. The restroom was outside, off to the side.
No toilet paper, of course, but I was prepared. 
After using the toilet, I went to flush, but there was no handle available. I looked for a button to push or chain to pull, but there was none.
“Okay,” I thought, “I’ll take the top of the tank off and lift the flapper.”
I lifted off the top and began to reach inside. Came to an abrupt stop.
The tank was filled with plastic fishies and starfish!
Then I remembered that just outside the door there was a large plastic tub full of water. Sure eoungh, a bucket sat right beside it.
Flush, flush.

To Todos Santos

To Todos Santos
Up before dawn and to the roof to look at stars. They are so brilliant in all this darkness! In the distance, the hum of a boat’s motor, a fisherman getting ready for a day of work.
Then down to our room to watch the dawn. By 6:00 there was just enough light that we could distinguish sea from sky.
A little later, the four of us (Cinda, me, and our two hosts) drove north a mile or so along the beach to a thermal spot. Two of us dug into the sand just a few feet from water’s edge, and about two feet down we hit hot water. 
Then the other two women went swimming, husband host occupied himself sitting the beach and sketching some house ideas, and I sat happily with my feet in hot sandy water. I stayed fully occupied digging out each time a sand wall collapsed or when the sea breached the moat I’d put around my hot spot.
The water was so hot I couldn’t go deeper. I tried go deeper but but nearly scorched my hands. With a good shovel I could have gone deep but would have needed a bit of the surf to cool the water off.
After beaching, back to the house for breakfast, a fast dash about town to say goodbyes, and then we were off, once again heading inland, through the village of San Antonio, north, then southwest to Todos Santos.
I simultaneously loved and loathed the place. Funky and trendy. Laid back, but in such an upscale way I almost felt out of place. It’s the first place we’ve been that people didn’t smile and greet one another on the street. 
There are more coffeehouses than in Bisbee. More overly-tanned women dripping turquoise. And more loud drunks. 
We were next to a few rowdies in Gurrero Negro, but they were nothing compared to the crowd of partiers in our poor hotel in Todos Santos. We prayed it wouldn’t last all night, and thankfully it didn’t.
We took a drive to the beach, and immediately saw whales blowing. They were likely headed north on the long migration. We saw just a few then headed back to town. The partiers were in full obnoxious mode but soon went out to eat, and likely continue drinking. They came back early and it quickly got quiet. We got good sleep.

El Sargento

El Sargento. How delicious! A lazy, lazy day. 
Good thing, too, because I’ve come down with the first cold I’ve had in about two years. At home, people have been sick off and on for months. Not I. No, I have to wait until I’m a four or five day drive from home to get sick. But in a gorgeous setting. 
The folks we’re staying with have been so kind, giving me Airborne and a big box of tissues. 
The others are now doing a beach walk, but I’m just not up to it so am sitting in the sun, writing, dozing, reading. For now, this is perfect for me. With the car as a barrier, I am out of most of the wind, sitting with sun on my poor winter-white skin, and watching the tide roll in. A lovely spot to be sick!
Back to the house, and soon tuna is on the grill.
I know I’ve said it before, but I could live here.
There is a little store in this town that is amazing. It’s run by Armita and Oscar. Need tires? Armita will get them. Need soy milk or brown rice? On the shelf. Half and half? Just look next to the milk.
Usually, none of these things exists in Mexico. Cinda’s friends said they could drive around La Paz all day and maybe not find half and half, but it’s always in El Sargento. The couple that runs the little mini mart in town aim to please, and they do.
Vegetables are hand chosen. The shelves are beautifully stocked with even things fussy eaters might want. When Oscar comes back from La Paz with a full truck, people who see the truck dash for the store and unload the shelves almost as fast as he can stock them.
As I said, I could live here.

South to El Sargento

It was with some regret that we left Loreto, but we knew we’d be back in a few days.
Baja California has only one main highway which runs south, zigzagging a bit across the peninsula. From Tijuana to San Quentin, we went pretty much south, often right on the coast of the Pacific and moving inland up to maybe ten miles. 
From there to Guerrero Negro, we were inland most of the time, coming back almost the coast when we go to the town.
From Guerrero Negro, however, we headed south and east crossing the mountains that run like a spine the length of the Baja peninsula. When we 
  reached El Rosario, we stayed on the Sea of Cortez in Loreto, then headed back west and south into the mountains, where we drove the high plains before cutting southeast into La Paz.
At La Paz we had to head a bit inland again for the short drive to El Sargento.  The drive from Loreto took about seven hours, and since we’re early risers, we we in El Sargento by two.
Cinda’s friends have a lovely two bedroom house on a bluff facing east across the Sea of Cortez. The house runs north-south with each room offering a stunning view of the sea. A patio, too, runs the east side, and there’s a rooftop patio that has 360 degree views. We settled quite happily into our room, then hit the beach for a short walk.
Mexico travelers, get this: their septic can handle toilet paper!!
There is a wonderful plant here called the elephant tree. In some ways it’s a little like a boojum. Both are broad at the base and taper to the top. Unlike the boojum that stands quite tall and straight with very tiny arms branching off it, the elephant tree is somewhat squat and has several thick arms that in turn hold tinier branches.
What makes the elephant tree most interesting is its brownish bark peels off. The  outer bark turns a beautiful coopery-gold color and peels off in small sheets much thinner than paper. They ruffle up loose all over the tree until they blow off, and before the blow off, they dance in the wind causing the tree to glimmer. It is a stunning little tree.
In addition to a number of elephant trees, the people we’re staying with have a sort of wild plum, a wild-looking cactus called pitaya agrla with arms that reach out every possible direction, and a number of desert shrubs totally unrecognizable to me. They’re birders, too, and the food and water they put out attract a beautiful variety. 
In one of those wonderful twists of fate, the friends we are staying with are good friends with neighbors just down the road, and the woman in that couple was Cinda’s childhood friend that she hadn’t seen for forty-seven years. What a reunion! 
Of course there was a gathering, a dinner, and lots of stories swapped.
The childhood friend works with a coil potter, Ramona, who lives in the mountains. This friend buys the woman’s pots and sells them in town, heading back to the mountains to give the woman any profits made and picking up more pots.
Or course I came away with one of the pots. It is larger than what I would like, but it is what was available. What’s interesting about this pot is it can be used on a stove top as well as in the oven. It’s perfect for making a large batch of frijoles or caldo, or for simmering mole with chicken. Again, it’s a bit large, but Cinda says I just need to have a party.
We returned home after our dinner. There are no streetlights here, and almost no one has an outdoor light on, so the stars are stunning. I lay in bed gazing out at stars and constellations that, though brilliant, were somehow misplaced in this southern sky.